Anietra Hamper holding a redtail catfish caught in the morning hours on the Essequibo River.
Destination Fishing in Guyana: Eyeing the Monster
by Anietra Hamper
Chasing giant catfish in the remote waters of the Essequibo River
Everything in the Guyanese jungle is bigger: the buzzing bees that cut your hair instead of stinging, the parasites that take over the mouths of predatory fish to steal incoming prey, the teeth and power of survival from the tiny red ants and mammoth anacondas to the jaguar prowling in the trees and, of course, the fish. There are many species of native catfish in the Essequibo River, but the indigenous Amerindians who live in the dense rainforests call the prized ones “monsters.”
Some of the catfish in the Essequibo can tip the scales up to 300 pounds. The appeal for catfish anglers is that Guyana offers a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to fish for these unique species in some of South America’s most wild and remote waters.
Destination angling is a chance to combine travel and a passion for fishing in an exciting way in remote environments most people will never experience. When you know the basics of how to do it, you open possibilities for catching the fish of a lifetime.
Why Guyana?
Guyana is bordered by Venezuela, Brazil and Suriname in the northern tip of South America. The capital of Georgetown has many modern conveniences like hotels, restaurants and nightlife, but the country’s real gems rest in remote, undisturbed rainforests where exotic wildlife, indigenous tribes and fishing thrive.
Of particular importance for fishing is the Essequibo River where catfish anglers can expect to catch personal bests for many species not found in North America. The river is Guyana’s largest, flowing 630 miles from Brazil to the Atlantic Ocean.
While there are many spectacular international fishing destinations to discover, including neighboring Suriname and Brazil, Guyana is less frequented by anglers and offers the added opportunity of catching many species not available in other locales.
“We are a multi-species destination,” said Lakeram Roopnarain, Team Leader for Adventure Guianas Piraiba Lodge. “The Essequibo River is the most unfrequented of its kind. You can come for 15 days and not see another angler.”
One thing you can expect to see is nature’s spectacle coming to life around you. You might see paired macaws flying overhead, sloths slowly making their way across the river or howler monkeys in loud chorus hidden in the trees. The songs of frogs and bats pierce the blackness of the jungle nights, emphasizing the destination’s remoteness.
Upping your fishing game in this kind of undisturbed natural environment among the Iwokrama rainforest as you pioneer your way into the wild rapids and back channels takes you just enough outside your comfort zone to untap a giddy excitement and wonder about what’s coming up out of the water with every cast.
The Catfish of Guyana
The jau and piraiba (lau lau) top the bucket list for most catfish anglers who come to Guyana, and why not? These monsters can reach 100-300 pounds and rest deep in secluded pools that sometimes plunge 80 feet deep. The stunning redtail catfish, with its head of armor, dynamic back and rubbery skin to deflect predators, can easily top 100 pounds.
Other prevalent catfish species here include the tiger shovelnose with exotic tiger-like stripes gracing a narrow body to camouflage it in the water; the leopard catfish (jandia) with ornate monochromatic spots that would inspire any artist; the zamora, a jumping catfish that can rival the aerial acrobatics of a peacock bass; plus, the blinker catfish, flat whiskered catfish and many others.
The bonus to catfishing in Guyana is not just the size and variety of the species but the many other fish you will catch along the way. It is possible to catch dozens of species in a single day, including the aggressive wolf fish and black piranha, vampire fish, peacock bass, pescada drum, arowana and spotted stingray. Navigate further into the small lagoons, only accessible by paddle, to experience the majestic elegance of the native arapaima, one of the world’s largest freshwater fish, coming up for air. These species are exciting for passionate anglers to see in their natural environments.
How to Tip the Scales
Catfish are supersized in Guyana, even the ones considered small by the standards of natives. The Essequibo River is a prime habitat for these species to grow and live for more than 40 years among the large, jagged boulders, caves and fast currents that give them plenty of food and places to hide.
The bigger catfish feed at night and during predawn hours, but a variety of species in respectable sizes also bite throughout the day, so fishing is generally productive around the clock.
The prime months for targeting catfish are September through January. But every season offers something different because of the way the water levels change throughout the year.
Basic tackle to take includes a heavy-action boat rod combined with a reel capable of carrying a minimum of 200 yards of 175-pound braid or 120-pound monofilament line. Piranhas often lurk where some of the catfish do, so consider a knotable wire leader and live bait or circle hooks between 5/0 and 10/0 in size. It is a good idea to bring lighter gear to catch bait and to get the best sport out of smaller species.
Where to Start
You will want to plan for at least a 10- to15-day trip, which includes getting to and from the river.
“Tourism is new to Guyana,” said Roopnarain. “It is unfrequented, and it is not easy to get from point A to point B. Everything is relatively untouched.”
But the river’s remoteness is the unique appeal, and doing your homework is key to having a good experience.
First, choose a reputable operator. The Guyana Tourism Authority has a list of approved tour operators that meet strict tourism and safety standards.
Second, ensure your safety. Be sure to obtain travel insurance for health or travel mishaps. Before your trip, ask your operator, are lifejackets available? What is the latest maintenance on the boats? Are the local fishing guides licensed?
Third, save your pennies and vacation time. This kind of trip will cost several thousand dollars and be all inclusive with food, lodging and fishing guides from pickup to drop-off in Georgetown. Beyond that, you’ll have to pay for tips, international flights and any additional days or excursions you choose to add.
Destination angling in Guyana is an exciting way for all anglers, especially catfish anglers, to have a transformative experience in an unforgettable way, taking in all the things that matter in fishing beyond just a great catch.
(Anietra Hamper is a career television news anchor and investigative journalist turned award-winning travel writer, book author and speaker who is passionate about fishing and outdoor adventure. Anietra travels the world fishing for catfish and other unique species in new destinations.)
